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Antonio Galloni : The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a terrific effort from Soldera. It is an elegantly powerful Brunello that displays expressive aromatics along with a more expansive, fleshier core of fruit and a darker set of cherry, smoke, tar and licorice flavors than the regular bottling. Blessed with notable length as well as broad yet finessed tannins, it displays the transparency and weightlessness that defines's this producer's best wines. Awesome. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.